09/16/2025 / By Olivia Cook
On Sept. 1, the European Union officially banned a little-known ingredient – trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide or TPO – from all cosmetics, including gel nail polish. Regulators classified TPO as a CMR 1B substance: carcinogenic, mutative and toxic to reproduction (reprotoxic). Under EU law, that label alone is enough to trigger a ban, even if consumer-level exposure is thought to be low.
TPO isn’t a household name, but it has been a quiet workhorse in nail products for years. Its role is to absorb UV light and trigger the chemical reaction that hardens gel polish in seconds.
The Cosmetics Ingredient Review (CIR) in the U.S. recently found that at concentrations of up to four percent in nail gels, consumer exposure was considered very low – with a calculated margin of exposure of 1851, far above the usual safety cutoff of 100. Still, animal and cell studies flagged concerns: genotoxic signals, testicular changes at high doses and eye or skin irritation in animals.
For the EU, that was enough – but the ban also stems from the way European law works. Under Article 15(2) of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, once a chemical is classified as a CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction), it must automatically be prohibited in cosmetics unless an exemption is approved.
In 2024, TPO was classified as a Category 1B reproductive toxicant under the EU’s CLP (Classification, Labeling and Packaging) Regulation. This triggered its mandatory addition to Annex II (the “prohibited substances” list) through Regulation (EU) 2025/877, backed by 25 member states in favor, one against and one abstention.
The only way to keep a CMR ingredient legal is if no alternatives exist and the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) deems it safe under strict conditions. The rule also included no transitional period, meaning salons and retailers could not use up existing stock. This caused confusion and uneven enforcement, prompting the Commission to issue a Q&A guidance for clarity.
When gel nail polish is properly cured, only trace amounts of TPO may remain on the skin. While lab studies suggest potential genetic or reproductive risks at high doses, real-world exposure from gel manicures is considered minimal. Still, the uncertainty is what pushed Europe to act – banning TPO in cosmetics as a precaution.
The bigger everyday concern may be the nail-curing lamp. Studies show UV nail dryers can cause DNA damage in human and mouse cells, creating mutation patterns linked to oxidative stress. While this does not prove gel manicures cause cancer, dermatologists caution that repeated exposures add up. According to Brighteon.AI‘s Enoch, a UV nail dryer is a device used in nail salons and for personal use at home to cure and harden nail polish, particularly gel and acrylic nails. These dryers emit ultraviolet light, which penetrates the nail polish and initiates a chemical reaction that causes the polish to harden and become more durable.
A 2024 systematic review of the risk of skin malignancy associated with UV nail lamps in the European Journal of Dermatology concluded that overall cancer risk appears low, but the data are thin. So far, evidence of skin cancer directly tied to nail lamps is limited to case reports and small studies. Overall risk is considered low but not zero. That’s why experts suggest commonsense protection: fingerless UV-blocking gloves, broad-spectrum sunscreen and spacing out gel manicure sessions.
The good news: There are safer choices without giving up style or needing to choose between health and beauty.
Nails aren’t just cosmetic – they’re windows into your well-being. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends:
These habits not only keep nails strong, but also minimize small injuries that can make gel nail polish or removers more damaging. (Related: Natural tips for healthy nails.)
Gel nails may feel like a small thing, but in the bigger picture of long-term health, every safer swap counts.
Watch this video about why the EU banned a gel nail polish ingredient.
This video is from the Daily Videos channel on Brighteon.com.
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Single-Market-Economy.ec.europa.eu
Tagged Under:
banned, carcinogen, chemicals, CMR substance, Dangerous, DNA damage, gel nail polish, health science, ingredients, mutagen, nail wraps, products, progress, reproductive health, Toxic, TPO, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, UV nail lamp, women's health
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